But for a couple years, Dean Lavoy has been guiding over-snow tours of Yellowstone National Park since 1996. On Saturday, he led a group of adventure-seeking tourists from Pahaska Tepee to Old Faithful, then pressing through snow showers over the Continental Divide for a thrilling view of the Lower Yellowstone River Falls.

It was Lavoy’s largest group ever.

Winter use through the East Gate is growing, up almost 50 percent in the past six years, according to Dede Fales, co-owner of the only business offering guided tours through Park County’s only open gateway.

The company used to get more local residents using their services than out-of-town travelers, but that’s also changing: Saturday’s tour included visitors from California, Louisiana, southern Illinois, China and Italy.

“It’s crazy,” Fales said. “The number of foreign visitors is building — especially from Asia.”

Despite the increase in business at Gary Fales Outfitting out of the Rimrock Ranch, the number of winter adventurers using the East Entrance during the winter remains responsible for less than a fraction of a percent of yearly visits.

“I don’t even go anywhere near the park in the summer. Nada. I don’t like the crowds,” Lavoy said. “That’s the beautiful thing about winter travel: No crowds to speak of until you get to Old Faithful.”

About 450,000 visitors used the East Entrance this year, down from 2018 due to inclement weather. Those entering through the East Gate during the winter season is trending up — by more than 40 percent in the past three seasons according to park data — but still less than 1,000 visitors.

“There is increased winter use [throughout the park], but it’s still a drop in the bucket compared to summer,” said Linda Veress, Yellowstone National Park public information specialist.

Veress said the number of cross country skiers coming through the East Entrance is trending up as well and may equal the number of snowmobiles coming through.

Yet the sparse number of visitors using the East Entrance is one of its top selling points. It’s an entirely different experience from traveling through the South and West entrances, according to Dede Fales.

“The other entrances are so slammed, people are coming here because they can actually book a trip with little advance planning. You typically get the entire east side of the park to yourself,” Fales said.

The outfitting company is always busy during the holiday season, but then traffic slows down, often giving visitors a chance to book a trip the day before they want to saddle up, Fales said. Their permit only allows 10 snowmobiles in the park per group and two guides in the park at the same time.

The limitations are a bonus for visitors. The feeling of isolation offers a more intimate view of the park, highlighting the snow covered landscape of the peaks through Sylvan Pass to Yellowstone Lake and beyond. “Once you get past West Thumb, there’s a lot of people,” Fales said.

There are currently 13 companies authorized to offer snowmobile tours inside Yellowstone’s borders. Eleven are located just outside the South and West entrances. Currently there are no guide services through the North Gate, but that could change soon, Veress said.

Fales Outfitting’s most popular package is the all-day tour, which includes Old Faithful, the Geyser Basin areas, Yellowstone Falls and Yellowstone Lake. “Our goal is to show the amazing sights and wonders from the unique perspective of a snowmobile traveling through the East Gate — the wildest and most dramatic way into the park,” Fales said.

Overnight trips are also offered and can be customized to fit the needs of different groups. Fales suggests overnight, multiday trips to those traveling from far away. The company also offers snowmobile rentals to those able to get permits for non-commercially guided trips. Most of those rentals are from locals who know the park well enough to go on their own, she said.

“Every year we’ve purchased more sleds,” Fales said. “We don’t want to say no to anyone.”

The Fales’ guides — Lavoy and Terry Dolan — have about 50 years of combined experience. Their vast experience in the region, both as longtime snowmobile and hunting guides, offers something rarely available elsewhere. A quick informal guesstimate by Dolan at the yearly non-mandatory winter guide training class offered by the park was that 80 percent of those in attendance were first-year guides. Though they’ve had decades of experience, Dolan and Lavoy attend the class every year, Fales said.

Winter travel in the park never gets old. “Every day in the park is a new adventure. You never know what’s coming,” Lavoy said.

He thinks the east side of the park is the best location for dramatic views and wildlife. In his many years he has seen some of the park’s most rare critters, including once seeing a wolverine near Cub Creek. “If we see wildlife we’ll stop for a better look,” he said.

Wolf viewing is one of the top stops on tours of the eastern-most portions of the park, including the Hayden Valley, he said. “The North Fork and east side of the park is probably the best place to view wildlife in the country — one of the best places in the world.”

The biggest mistake made by winter visitors is not wearing enough layers. Saturday started with temperatures near 0 degrees Fahrenheit. That drops to nearly 20 degrees below zero considering the wind chill factors on the sleds.

Chinese tourists Han and Quing Quing Lin found the guide service online and traveled from California to be one of the relatively few to see the park during winter. But Quing Quing was ill-prepared for the brutal cold. “She’ll make it, but her feet are very cold,” Han said.

Her favorite stops may well have been at the frequent warming huts in the park, where fires are stoked by winter season employees.

By the time the group exited the park, a sliver moon was setting behind the towering peaks of the North Fork about 40 minutes after sunset — nine full hours after the group warmed their engines.

The winter season at East Gate opens a week later than the other entrances and closes two weeks earlier, on March 2.

“We’ve fought every year of our 25 years with a permit for those three extra weeks,” Fales said.

Pro Tips

Some winter clothing is included with the price of the tour, including a snowmobile suit and helmet. But it’s best to make sure you bring two pairs of wool socks and a balaclava, as well as several layers, including thermal underwear.

Try on your helmet while wearing your head covering for the best comfort level.

Unless a short trip is planned, Fales Outfitters discourages children younger than 10 years old from snowmobile tours.

Bring a good lunch and lots to drink. There is plenty of room on the back of the snowmobiles for small, soft-sided coolers.